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Item # W 10001

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WoodlandPRO Chain Saw Bar Rail Closer

This Bar Rail Closer trues up bar rails, gives you less chain wear, saves you money and is very easy to use. Designed to close the rails of your chain saw bar back to their original shape. Get better performance. This simple tool will keep your cuts straight and true.

Was $25.99
Now Only $19.99
You Save $6.00 (23%)
Item # W 10001

In Stock

Shipping weight 1.66 lbs.

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Specifications

Product Q & A

Reviews

Showing questions 1 - 4 of 4

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Q.	Do you folks have any instructions on using this? I am a part time mechanic at a hardware store and want to offer this service (bar refubishing), but it seems to not fit the smaller (home owner) saw bars, what am I doing wrong? Any info would be helpfull. Thanks, Ed ReevesPSIf there is any kind of detailed info on the use of this, please send me the link/site.
A.	Sorry, no video. If you're trying to do mini bar or or small bar, you'll need to adjust the depth. Just in front of the bearings is a screw that sets the depth of the closer. You need to screw the adjuster in. This will move the bearings up so they're squeezing the rails and not the bar.
	514 people found this answer helpful.
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	Posted by: Ed R from NC on 1/25/2008

Q.	Will it do harvester bars?
A.	It's a great tool for maintenance on any bar. But if your bar needs grinding and reconditioning then a bar rail grinder is what you will need to use.
	432 people found this answer helpful.
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	Posted by: P O from NZ on 3/17/2008

Q.	Hi: If I buy and use this tool, how can I be sure I'm not closing up the rails too tight? Does it have a built in gauge? Thanks.
A.	You use a piece of the original chain to gauge.
	332 people found this answer helpful.
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	Posted by: Robert from Montana on 7/1/2009

Q.	I run .058 chain. What is the correct clearance? I'm guessing a 0.001 is enough.
A.	As you close the bar you'll discover tight, and loose spots. This because the closer closes the bar uniformly but, the inside groove of the bar is worn randomly. Use a small length of the appropriate gauge chain (3 or 4 DL)as a go, no go gauge. First remove any burrs from the outside of the bar. Gen ... (See full answer) As you close the bar you'll discover tight, and loose spots. This because the closer closes the bar uniformly but, the inside groove of the bar is worn randomly. Use a small length of the appropriate gauge chain (3 or 4 DL)as a go, no go gauge. First remove any burrs from the outside of the bar. Generally you'll have to close the bar tighter in some un-worn places to get the worn places down to the desired gauge. Then go back around and open the tight spots to your desired gauge. (Hide full answer)
	192 people found this answer helpful.
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	Posted by: CARL C from PA on 3/19/2011

Showing questions 1 - 4 of 4

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Showing reviews 1 - 5 of 5

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A real "bar" saver!

Posted by: DAVE M from PA on 2/15/2013

Rating:

The instructions could be a little better however you need not be rocket scientist to figure it out. Lock the bar up securely in a vice. I highly recommend using the Pferd universal edge sharpener first! Once you have squared up your bar's rails, place the tool on the bar per the picture and directions on the box. Most important, be sure you set the depth gage screw correctly. If you set the depth too low, you will be "squeezing" the bar and not the rails! If you set the depth too high, you will not be "squeezing" the rails their total depth! Once you have set the depth correctly, level the tool to the bar using the tools pull handle. Secure the leveling depth with the handles jam nut. Now your all set. I found it easier to pull the tool from the bar's nose back toward the saw mounting end of the bar. I used a flat feeler gauge set at + .002" over the gage of the chain. Example....for a .063" gage chain, my feeler gauge thickness was .065". Or you can use a few links of chain. Check your progress every two strokes at first. When you get close, check your progress every stroke! I did three bars today in less than a hour taking my time to set the tool up correctly to each bar. This tool has already paid for itself!

37 people found this review helpful.

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Bar Rail Closer

Posted by: SCOTT C from WI on 2/10/2011

Rating:

Not impressed!!! The directions are terrible and functionality is not there as I hoped. I did read all the reviews and took the chance wishing I hadn't. As one review says you have to tighten the heck out of it. I cant tighten it enough to do anything. I screwed around with it for over an hour and got minimal results. I was trying it on an old bar that i no longer use and achieved better results just clamping it in a vise.

237 people found this review helpful.

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it works,sort of

Posted by: RUSSELL D from BC on 9/2/2010

Rating:

I find that i have to tighten the hell out of it and have to run it by the bar a lot of times to get it to close. It also tends to ride up and off the bar unless you hold it just right. Once you do get it to close up the bar, its really easy to over tighten.I guess its better than nothing. Other than that it does work, although its not very user friendly.

192 people found this review helpful.

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Good unit, worth the money

Posted by: Mike from CA on 3/9/2010

Rating:

This little unit has paid for itself with the first couple of uses. Be sure to secure your bar in a vice and wear a pair of heavy leather gloves when you use it. And keep checking your groove with a piece of chain after each run, it's real easy to close the rails too much.

176 people found this review helpful.

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Bar Rail Closer

Posted by: Charlie from Mi on 9/17/2009

Rating:

Received it today and used it for the first time. First thing I noticed is the depth gage (a small screw and the end of the closer) does not ride on the bar rail top when you apply side pressure to the roller bearing. The screw gets pushed to the side of the bar making it useless. Second, there is a belleville (cupped) washer between the roller bearing that moves sideways and the closer. The instructions do not mention it. Third, the images here show the user with his hands on the bottom, which is not the way you use it. Fourth, the instructions should tell you to check your progress with a piece of chain as you can make it to tight. BUT does it work? Well, yes: crudely I would say. You need the bar to be securely clamped down: again the instructions say nothing about that. I purchased the Edge Sharpener also and there were NO instructions with it. Yet, it's pretty clear what is to be done EXCEPT the file holder is designed to move in and out. What's that all about? But, again, it worked. And it's amazing how much has to come off of one side to make the two edges level again. It would be nice to know why bars wear this way. I guess that's why they say to invert the bar after each sharpening.

246 people found this review helpful.

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Showing reviews 1 - 5 of 5

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