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Only $319.99

Item # 46560

In Stock

Shipping weight 5.00 lbs.

Accutech Micro Mill

This chain saw milling device is sets the standard for quality and accuracy when it comes to portable chainsaw mills. The Accutech Micro-mill uses a common 2" x 6" for a guide and clamps to your saw in minutes. This device works great for squaring up posts and beams, and it excels at cutting holes out for doors, windows and vents on log homes. It is built of sturdy cast aluminum and is machined to exact tolerances. The two serrated carbide grippers attach to your chain saw bar quickly and there is no drilling necessary. Micro Clamp rotates on sealed precision bearings. Start milling right out of the box! Comes fully assembled.

Only $319.99

Item # 46560

In Stock

Shipping weight 5.00 lbs.

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Chainsaw Milling House Timbers

Posted by: Dave H from Wyoming on 4/10/2009

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One overriding assumption for the following review is that chainsaw milling of lumber is inherently slower and less efficient than a portable band saw mill, but it is also a lot cheaper in terms of equipment purchase and maintenance. Using the Accutech Micro Mill, my wife and I spent few of months last summer milling about 250 9" X 9" timbers ranging from 8' to 18' long for a house. The logs were all insect killed, primarily lodgepole pine but also some spruce and doug fir. With a little practice got outstanding results both in terms of squareness and straightness. I found set up through the entire milling process quicker and easier with the Micromill than with the Alaskan mill I used briefly a few years ago, and the resulting beams are just as accurate. I also tried the Beam Machine for a few logs, threw it back in the truck box and went back to the Micro Mill. The Micro Mill may be more expensive but in my opinion this is a classic case of you get what you pay for. It is a precision made piece of equipment. When you consider felling, limbing, bucking, set up, milling and saw maintenance our production would average about 1 (8') timber per hour. We have done as many as 13 in an 8 or 9 hour working day. Travel time, loading, hauling, unloading are in addition. We both qualify for AARP discounts. Our set up used a 2X6 for a guide rail and we had three different lengths - 10', 16' and 20'. Life is a little easier if you use a guide rail a couple of feet longer than the log as it makes entering, and particularly exiting, the cut more accurate and less likely to put the tip of the bar into the dirt. Our saw was a Stihl MS390 with a 20" bar and we were cutting 12" to 16" logs. Rather than nails, we use long deck screws to attach the guide rail to the logs because one key to efficiency and quality in the end product is the guide rail set up. My wife uses a square and a level to set the guide rail level the whole length of the log for the initial cut. That is level across the 6" dimension checked at several points down the log and adjusted by screwing in or out the deck screws, which are inserted in each edge of the 2 by 6. With this set up I can make cuts down both sides of the log without resetting the guide bar if I want a 9" dimension. Then roll the log 90 degrees, do one more set up and make both cuts to end up with a square timber. We have also milled cherry and oak cants in Maryland which will be the material for the cabinet and case work. In fact we originally bought the Micro Mill to do this after hurricane Isabel in 2003. My one criticism is that if you want different dimensions then you need to reset the guide rail after each cut. However this same issue exists with the Beam Machine and with slabbing guides on the Alaskan Mill. We are experimenting with a solution to this this summer and will update the review if it is successful. We have another 200+ timbers to mill.

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