This axe is harder than a standard rafting axe. This allows for a finer edge, but you give up malleability for the greater hardness. The edge of this axe would chip before it would bend if you were to strike a rock.

Because of the hardness of this axe it is not recommended for knots, especially frozen knots.

When you start having things like frozen wood, many knots, or wood that has been drug around (dirt and rocks).

We've had great responses on these axes. They are closest to Tuatahi's working axe. The steel isn't as hard as Competition Axe from Tuatahi, but hard enough to keep a good edge.

In the context of competition axes it is a multipurpose grind - meaning it has more metal on the cutting edge than some of the more aggressive, finer grinds. Sharpening with a file is no problem. As for cutting conditions please review the other FAQ's as they give a good description of the condition

In the context of competition axes it is a multipurpose grind - meaning it has more metal on the cutting edge than some of the more aggressive, finer grinds. Sharpening with a file is no problem. As for cutting conditions please review the other FAQ's as they give a good description of the conditions this axe can handle.
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The cutting edge measures approximately 6-7/8" from tip to tip, while the back to the furthest point of the cutting edge measures approximately 7-3/8".

It's made in China.

It's drop forged.

The design is closest to what some would call a "college" axe, meaning it's a forgiving grind designed for competition practice, or competition itself. It is hardened beyond what would be recommended for everyday splitting.

4-1/8" Long and 1-1/4" Wide

The axe is everything as advertised it came very sharp and really does cut, I would like the handle a tad longer but I am sure it is designed with the weight of the head to keep it from being too hard to swing. I have only used it twice but it seems to hold an edge pretty well, when you compare it to the OX-Head at $300.00 it seems a real bargain.

I used this axe mostly for splitting firewood, shake and shingle blocks. I found the weight very good, with good momentum for splitting large pieces, yet light enough for the smaller guys to handle easily. I found the balance a little off, with too much weight at the head, a bit light on the handle. This is good for chopping, but when splitting large corrugated pieces the handle has to be a bit tougher for prying, it also makes it harder to maintain precise control, redirect or stop swings. I removed the stock handle and welded a cast aluminum handle in it, increasing the weight to about 18lbs and balancing it a lot lower in the handle for better acceleration and control. When I did use it for chopping it was spectacular, I fell a 16" diameter alder tree in one chop (loaded) but the cut was very deep and clean, effortlessly penetrating about 6 inches without binding.

This axe is much better quality than a hardware store axe. However, the finish of the axe head was not as detailed/polished as advertised in the picture given. I broke the handle and replaced it with a new 32" one from a local hardware store. The quality of the twelve dollar hardware store handle was much better than the one that was originally on the axe. Overall a good practice axe, but it might be worth spending a bit extra for the ones from New Zealand....

Axe is not bad, just have to burn out the handle and get good ones to replace it. Axe covers not great ether. Yes, burn the handle out it gives the head more durability in hard wood.