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Timberline Chainsaw Chain Sharpener

Timberline Chainsaw Chain Sharpener

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Was: $119.99
Now: $109.99
Save: $10.00 (8%)
Item #: TMB SHARPENER
In Stock

Professional bar mounted filing guide from Timberline. The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener gives you the ability to sharpen your chain right on your saw, without removing the chain. Simply mount this guide to your chainsaw bar, adjust the carbide cutter to your chain tooth, and crank the handle. This device will put a perfect edge on your chain, at the correct angles, every time. Because the cutters are made from carbide, they will last much longer than standard chainsaw files. We recommend you watch the video to see how easy it really is. The first thing you will notice after sharpening your chain with the sharpener is how much faster the saw will cut through wood. A sharp chain will self feed into the wood and cut through a log in seconds. Comes complete with storage bag

Important Note: Sharpening carbide cutters are sold separately. Choose the carbide cutter for the pitch of chain you are using.

Professional bar mounted filing guide from Timberline. The Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener gives you the ability to sharpen your chain right on your saw, without removing the chain. Simply mount this guide to your chainsaw bar, adjust the carbide cutter to your chain tooth, and crank the handle. This device will put a perfect edge on your chain, at the correct angles, every time. Because the cutters are made from carbide, they will last much longer than standard chainsaw files. We recommend you watch the video to see how easy it really is. The first thing you will notice after sharpening your chain with the sharpener is how much faster the saw will cut through wood. A sharp chain will self feed into the wood and cut through a log in seconds. Comes complete with storage bag

Important Note: Sharpening carbide cutters are sold separately. Choose the carbide cutter for the pitch of chain you are using.

Item #: TMB SHARPENER
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In Stock
View the Instructions (7mB pdf file)

Tips and Tricks
Carbide Wear Carbides experience most wear the first time a chain is sharpened. This is due to the carbide not seating properly and binding in the hook of the chain. To avoid this, seat the carbide into the chain by leaving the side knobs loose on the sharpener. Sharpen each tooth of the chain very slightly. You will hear/feel a chatter as the carbide spins which will smooth out as the hook of the chain shapes to the contour of the carbide. This is only necessary the first time a chain is sharpened.

Level Sharpener One of the most common mistakes users make when first using the sharpener is not leveling it correctly on the bar. This will cause the carbide to not fit correctly when sharpening the opposite side teeth. First, as the sharpener rocks on the carbide try to visually level the sharpener flat on the bar and tighten the side screws. Remove carbide, pull chain forward to the next opposite cutting tooth and try to insert carbide in the corresponding guide. If it doesn’t fit, loosen the side screw directly across and move the sharpener up or down as needed to allow the carbide to be fully inserted.

Sharpen One Side At A Time By sharpening every other tooth you don’t have to fully remove the carbide from the guide. This is much faster and allows you to have two free hands to pull the chain forward to the next tooth. Additionally, some saws need the rear thumbscrew to be readjusted to sharpen the opposite side of the chain. This is to insure the same amount of material is removed see the next tip.

Even Length Cutting Teeth Depending on the size of chainsaw, it may be required to sharpen all teeth on the right side before switching to the left side. This is due to smaller saws having a thinner bar which shifts the path of the carbide and moves the intersection point off center. To adjust for this offset, simply readjust or loosen the rear thumbscrew so that the chain is sharpened evenly. By first working the right side teeth and then switching to the left the rear thumbscrew should only need to be readjusted once.

Not Cutting Straight Uneven cutting teeth is often the cause. If one side of the chain has longer cutting teeth they will take a bigger bite out of the wood than the shorter teeth. If the chain is cutting to the left that means the right teeth on the chain are longer, and vise versa. To correct, sharpen only the side with the longer teeth. If the bar has worn unevenly it will also cause the chain to not cut straight.

Chain Not Cutting If the chain is sharp, but doesn’t feel like it is cutting then the depth gauges or rakers need to be lowered. This is the “shark fin” shape directly in front of each cutting tooth. It’s purpose is to limit how deep the cutting tooth dives into the wood. As the chain is sharpened not only the length, but also the height is shortened. Eventually these also need to be lowered. Using a flat file, about 2 stokes off the top of each depth gauge is all that is needed. Lowering the depth gauges too much will cause the cutting teeth to take too big of a bite and make the saw jam or worse jump.

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